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Do I Really Need to Use an Eye Serum or Cream?

Ep 47: The Natural Beauty of the Eyes by Dior Beauty’s Capture Totale Eye Serum

Dr. Teo: Hi guys, welcome to this week’s episode of Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty. I’m Dr. Teo Wan Lin of TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre. We have a really exciting topic to share today about the natural beauty of the eyes, as well as some exciting new research on eye serum brought to you by Dior, that can bring your eye care routine to greater heights. Here’s a bit about why the eyes are such a significant part of not just our appearance but also evolutionary psychology.

Chelsea: I’m excited to dive into this topic! The eyes are usually the first thing I notice in someone’s face. It is also the part of the face where aging first starts to appear, so it does make sense that eye care is so important!

Dior Capture Totale Eye Serum
The natural beauty of the eyes

Dr. Teo: The eyes are said to be the mirror of the soul. But realistically, our perceptions of other individuals are such that a lot of our communication is also non-verbal and that relies on body language. The eyes are a focal point not just of the face, but it’s also where we encounter, both literally and philosophically our initial perception of another person. If you think that outward appearances count, perhaps it’s also true that your eyes will reflect who you are – your personality, your likes, dislikes, your mood. We consider that the eyes are a focal point of the face, a fundamental area, especially when we are discovering a new face. Interestingly, 60% of muscles linking to facial expression, which is also what we also read when interpreting body language, are actually linked to the eye area.

Chelsea: Wow, I definitely overlooked the fact the eyes play a huge role in the expression of our emotions and feelings. Now that I think about it, our eyes can show a smile and laugh. Or furrow our brows when we are frustrated – it really is linked to so many of our facial expressions! I’m curious, how did we get this number of 60%? Was there a study on this topic? 

Dior Eye Power Study

Dr. Teo: The Dior Eye Power Study essentially uses an eye-tracking system known as occulometry. This is a method that trains a camera on the eyes that also follows the focal point of the eyes when an individual views an image. In this study involving 27 participants, the results showed that this part of the face actually determines 80% of our perceived age. Interestingly, even for factors that are attributed to the quality of skin such as radiance. Participants felt that the eyes represent 77% of our perception of an individual’s overall radiance.

Participants also found that the eyes reflect 74% of the innate health of the individual. More generally, 65% of participants found that the eyes were the number one factor that is associated with our attractiveness. From the results of this study, Dior’s research team developed a universal index of the signs of ageing in the eye area which comprises a few markers. 

Universal index of the signs of ageing

Starting from the skin itself, the evenness of the skin tone, how luminous it appears to be. Moving on a little bit deeper to factors that affect the dermis, the second layer of the skin. This is where the effects of facial and eye expressions can show through the skin. That would be fine lines and wrinkles. Another factor in the study includes the appearance of eyelids, drooping. Finally, you have the presence of dark shadows, eye bags. Additionally, what the study describes as tonicity, which is the elasticity and the suppleness of the skin.

Chelsea: In terms of signs of ageing, fine lines and wrinkles are not a surprise. However, I never thought to consider that tonicity. In fact, even the elasticity of the skin does play a role in the ageing of the eye as well!

What are the causes behind these signs of aging? 

Reduced energy potential of mother cells

Dr. Teo: Dior research actually identified two biological processes that lie behind the cutaneous signs of eye ageing, which is first, related to the mother cells. The eye area innately possesses lesser cutaneous mother’s cells. As we age, the number of mother cells don’t change, but their energy potential diminishes by up to 50%. This process also affects the mother cells of the eye area as well.

Reduction of alpha-SMA protein

The second factor links to the structure of the skin under the eyes. To illustrate, this means, there is lower tonicity with age. This reduction in the skin elasticity, and the tautness and firmness, has to do with a protein – alpha-SMA, which is a protein found in muscles. The fibroblasts are cells that are able to contract and relax, contributing to the ability of the skin around the eye area to appear firm and resilient. This alpha-SMA protein decreases by up to 60% as one ages. Hence, this leads to a corresponding reduction of 38% in the skin’s capacity for tolerating tension. This is also explained by the terms elasticity, and tonicity.

Chelsea: For our listeners, to briefly explain the term ‘mother’ cells or stem cells. These are cells that are rapidly dividing in the body that have the ability to give rise to more stem cells or become other types of cells. This is important because they are responsible for tissue generation, regeneration, and renewal in the skin. As we age, mother cells lose their ability to renew the skin, leading to these factors of aging. So what can we do to prevent eye ageing?

What ingredients directly target these mechanisms of eye ageing? 

Biocellular Longoza extract

Dr. Teo: The active ingredients in the Dior Capture Totale Super Potent Eye Serum include patented Biocellular Longoza extract which helps to stimulate the regenerative power of the cutaneous mother cells as we mentioned earlier. Besides, it also participates in cell talk, which can be best understood as stimulating essential functions of the cells surrounding the mother cells. This is a process that can combat oxidative stress. Hence, the eye serum can target the signs of ageing around the eye area very efficiently.

Biocellular Longoza Extract in the Captuire Totale Eye Serum
Active rye extract

Secondly, we have active rye extract. This extract is significant because it acts on the expression of alpha-SMA protein. According to studies conducted by Dior, this protein expression is boosted by 80%. The result will be literally reinforcing the skin’s firmness, making it look tighter, more toned. Leading to a firm and youthful appearance around the eye area. Finally, acetylated hyaluronic acid is a low molecular weight version of hyaluronic acid that allows it to penetrate more easily with a significantly improved plumping effect.

The process of acetylation protects it from being degraded in the skin by the skin’s enzymes. So this means that the acetylated hyaluronic acid can last 10 times longer in the eye area compared to traditional versions of hyaluronic acid. The entire formula is also combined with a base of glycerin. This is a potent humectant that helps to trap moisture in the eye area.

Chelsea: Wow it looks like these ingredients really focus on targeting the root cause of these signs of eye ageing. The eye serum also uses up to 92% of ingredients that are of natural origin in the formula! I also understand that the Capture Totale Super Potent Eye Serum has really interesting packaging.

How does the packaging affect the function of the eye cream, can you tell us more about that? 

Dr. Teo: The appeal of the latest Capture Totale Eye Serum is also in the integrated applicator. The genius of it is that it combines two important functions of an applicator in a device that is not just aesthetically pleasing, but also unique and functional. First of all, the applicator is designed in such a way that it limits contact with air. This prevents oxidation of the active ingredients, a common problem faced with eye creams that are stored in a tub. Besides, it also eliminates having to use your fingers to dip into a tub in order for application. In that case, we can see how this applicator preserves the hygiene and the integrity of the sensitive dermocosmetic formula.

360 CRYO-FLEX applicator

Additionally, the functionality of the applicator is in its design. It has a unique cryo draining effect with the 360 CRYO-FLEX applicator. The surface of the applicator has a microwave appearance which functions as a delicate massage tool. This provides the mechanical stimulation that’s required for collagen production.

Unique thermal properties

According to the principles of mechanobiology, we know that massage can stimulate collagen production on its own. Especially in combination with a potent anti-ageing dermocosmetic, such as in this case, the biocellular longoza extract. The representation of the 360 CRYO-FLEX applicator is encapsulated in the unique thermal properties of the head being cooling in nature, it is also anti-inflammatory. All these factors serve to enhance the innate biological activity of the active ingredients of the super potent serum first demonstrated in the Capture Totale Serum, and now, in the eye serum.

Chelsea: Wow I see, it’s so interesting to know that eye cream is not just about the formulation and the active ingredients, but the applicator and method of application really make a difference in harnessing the maximum benefits as well! 

Dr. Teo: The Dior Capture Totale Super Potent Serum for eyes is endorsed by Gisele Bundchen, a universal beauty icon, a committed mother, a longtime environmental activist, the perfect role model for all – who aspire to see the world through a unique vision. As Christian Dior himself said, after women, flowers are the most lovely thing God has given to the world.

This episode aptly surmises the very science of beauty- which is not just an aesthetic but also a lesson in perception and not forgetting all that we have learnt from the cellular intelligence of living beings—all this and more in the finest of Dior research in the creation of an eye serum in a genius applicator- in a celebration of femininity, beauty and science, quite literally – in all of its visual splendour. 

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